Desenzano del Garda
Come discover what the little pearl of Lake Garda has to offer: Desenzano.
Culture
VILLA ROMANA
In the area surrounding our appartments, you can visit the VillaRomana of Desenzano, is one of the best-preserved late antique villas on Lake Garda. It was built between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD and remained in use at least the 5th century AD. The structure had direct access to the lake and is spread over 4 sectors: A, B, C and D. The most beautiful sector is sector A, which is the representative sector.
We do not know who the mansion belonged to: it is assumed that the owner might have been a certain de Centius, from whom "decenziano" would derive and from whom Desenzano would in turn derive, but this is only a hypothesis.
The Villa in question is certainly one of the villas that has better preserved its mosaic floor compared to other villas such as those in Sirmione or Toscolano Maderno, dated to the same period. The remains were discovered around 1920-1930, when construction was underway in the area and coincidentally historical finds came to the surface.
From that moment, excavation campaigns then began from that time and continued from the 1930s until the 1980s, when the archaeological site became usable.
The Villa of Desenzano presents all those rooms typical of the typical suburban villa of the first century AD: the entrance, the peristilium, which was an inner courtyard, i.e., a small room that provided access to the triclinium, the triclinium itself, which was the dining room all entirely decorated with polychrome mosaics, a small viridarium, i.e., a private internal garden that was probably reserved for the lord and his family, in addition to bedrooms.
Interestingly, also in Desenzano there is evidence of the "hypocaust" technique, which ensured the underfloor heating of the rooms, visible both in the representative sector A and in the later sectors, especially in sector D, which is a thermal sector. It is assumed, in fact, that those who lived in the villa had hot, cold and lukewarm water, called their own thermal environment, which was used for refreshment, well-being and hygienic body care.
In fact, the term spa is not to be understood as we understand it today, that is, as a place of spa and wellness, but should be considered as a place of personal hygiene and cleansing. Moreover, as mentioned earlier, the lake at that time came close to the Villa, and it is thought that the water used was lake water.
Another interesting aspect of the archaeological site is the presence of an Antiquarium, i.e., a small museum inside the Villa that allows visitors to admire all those remains that were found there, including statues that probably decorated the peristilium and a small glass cup depicting a character with a beard, stars and a rooster, dating back to the 4th century AD. This depiction suggests that Christianity, as the villa remained standing until the 5th century AD, had also arrived on Lake Garda’s shores.
The villa was then abandoned in the 5th century, the period of the barbarian invasions.
CASTLE
On Lake Garda in Desenzano, the Castle was placed in the upper part of the city with the strictly defensive function. Inside, in fact, lived not kings, queens, princes and princesses, but the inhabitants of Desenzano, who could find refuge and shelter in case of enemy invasions. For this reason it was called a "ricetto" castle.
It was built around the 13th century, probably on top of a Roman castrum, that is, on ancient remains of Roman settlements, a proposal, however, only hypothesised.
The keep is definitely the highest lookout point that served to control the territory 360 degrees. Nowadays it is one of the most beautiful viewpoints of Lake Garda. The patrol walkway was also built with the aim of controlling the territory. Originally, there must have been a hundred cottages inside the castle that served the inhabitants of Desenzano to find shelter in case of danger. In fact, when necessary, the drawbridge was pulled up to protect those within its perimeter who had sought refuge. Inside was the small church of Sant'Ambrogio, which later, with the arrival of Napoleon in the late 1700s, was deconsecrated and turned into a military depot. The castle also houses the large Beretta Barracks, built around the 1800s as the headquarters of the Alpine troops and bersaglieri, and which was later used as a freight depot in recent times.
In the years 2006-2007, the castle was restored with funds from the European Community, which made it possible to redevelop a large part of the structure, restoring the rooms and making it visitable and usable for the entire city.
PIAZZA MALVEZZI
Piazza Malvezzi is Desenzano's historic square on Lake Garda and one of the city's main squares. It was reorganized and built around the 1500s to a design by the brescian architect Giulio Todeschini, who was called to Desenzano to redevelop the square with a number of buildings that were to characterise the new town layout.
In Desenzano, we know there was the largest market on Lake Garda. Nowadays, the Tuesday market still recalls the market day of years past and reminds us that Desenzano has always been one of the main centrers for sorting products and goods from the lake.
For this reason, the present palace named after him, i.e., the "Palazzo Todeschini," which today houses the Bosio information office and civic gallery, was built and designed by Todeschini. At that time, it was called "Il Granarolo," that is, the large warehouse of the city of Desenzano, inside which all those materials and products that came from the lake were stored. In fact, these large barges arrived in Porto, unloading products such as grain, paper, timber, iron... all those products that were later stored inside il Granarolo to be resold on market day. The name "Granarolo," you may have guessed, derives from wheat, one of the most traded products in Desenzano.
The whole structure of the square was in function of the market: the porticoes framing Piazza Malvezzi, in fact, had the function of accommodating the stalls of the market and guaranteeing trading even in bad weather. That is why all around the perimeter of Piazza Malvezzi are the arcades, which are precisely the frame of the square itself.
Further enriching the space is the “palazzo del Provveditore" which features the same construction material as the Todeschini palace, namely the large white stone of Malcesine. Il palazzo del Provveditore, also designed by Giulio Todeschini, was precisely the seat of the provveditore during the Venetian rule of Desenzano. However, the provveditore would never reside in the city but would move from the beginning to Salò, on the Zanardelli lakefront. The palace in Desenzano will therefore not be finished: only the first two arches containing two masks have been finished, one of male appearance with a beard and bunches of grapes near the ears that should represent the god of wine Bacchus, and on the other side one of female appearance that should represent Demeter, the goddess of agriculture.
Another monument that is an integral part of Piazza Malvezzi the statue of Saint Angela Merici, patron saint of Desenzano. Angela was born in Desenzano probably in Via Castello, where there is a plaque commemorating her. She then moved to the Grezze area, where she had her vocation. She later moved to Salò and finally to Brescia, where she spent the rest of her life.
It was in Brescia that in the first half of the 1500s she founded the order of Ursuline schools, establishing the first written rule in the vernacular by a woman. Angela Merici is that Saint who enables young women to pursue careers other than marriage or religious services. She allows women to be able to be active in the community as laywomen or to take vows without necessarily entering a convent.
Saint Angela died in Brescia and was buried there, in the Church that would later be named after her and where the Saint's body is still present, attracting many worshippers and tourists every year.
In the past, barges used to arrive in the Porto Vecchio as far as the square.
Nowadays there is a bridge called "alla Veneziana", which was built under the fascist period in the 1930's, however, has it has nothing to do with Venetian style.
CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA MADDALENA
At Lake Garda in Desenzano, the Cathedral of Saint Maria Maddalena was built over an earlier church. The project is also by architect Giulio Todeschini, again with a view to that redevelopment that also characterised Piazza Malvezzi.
The foundation stone was laid in 1586 and the Church was consecrated a few years later, in 1611. The interior of the cathedral holds works by artists of particular value, dating mainly from the Venetian era: first among them Gian Battista Tiepolo, a Venetian painter born in the late 1600s and considered one of the greatest painters of the Venetian 18th century. Tiepolo is remembered because in the chapel of the Blessed Sacramenthe he painted the famous "Last Supper."
The painting depicts a Last Supper with a particular perspective, different from what we are used to thinking of: the view of the work, in fact, is not frontal but diagonal, probably due to the limited space Tiepolo had in painting the canvas.
Another great artist featured in the Duomo is Andrea Celesti, a Venetian artist who worked from the second half of the 17th century and created the "Resurrection of the Dead" and a beautiful cycle of works dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena for Desenzano. Inside the church is another noteworthy area, namely the Chapel of Saint Angela Merici, which is located on the left as soon as you enter the building. It was built around the end of the 19th century and is one of the most beautiful examples of the Art Nouveau style. At the entrance to the chapel there are six small paintings that tell the life of the Saint, the work of the artist Calcinardi.
G. RAMBOTTI ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
The archaeological museum G. Rambotti is the historical museum of the town of Desenzano del Lago Garda.
It is located and housed in the former Carmelite convent. Immediately next to the convent is the former Church of Santa Maria de Senioribus, now deconsecrated and renamed "Teatro Alberti", but which during the 15th century or so was the church occupied by the Carmelite order.
As mentioned, the archaeological museum is located where the convent was located at the time, specifically within those areas that were once used for the canteen and dormitory. The archaeological museum houses a number of finds from the prehistoric era, mainly from the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods. The museum was opened to the public around the 1990s, and among the various spaces, it is possible to immerse oneself in a series of pile-dwelling remains, mostly from the Cataragna and Peschiera areas, in an area of the museum dedicated to activities that took place in the past such as textile activities or the activity of ceramic decoration.
An important mention should also be made of the large Lavagnone plough, the oldest plough in the world, dating back to the early Bronze Age (2000 BC) and found in the Lavagnone area around the 1970s. The historical richness of this area caught the attention of UNESCO, which declared it a World Heritage Site in 2011.
Sailing, Windsurfing, Canoeing and Stand Up Paddling
In Desenzano, as in other towns on Lake Garda, it is possible to practice these wonderful activities, both at amateur and advanced level. In the town centre there is the Fraglia Vela, an historical Desenzano school. A little more than 1 km from the centre, on the other hand, you can find the LNI (Lega Navale Italiana), which also offers courses of a few days “full immersion”, suitable for beginners or those who want to perfect their technique. Safety, first and foremost, and fun is guaranteed.
Swimming
At the “Parco del Laghetto”, around 2 km from the centre, there is a facility with three swimming pools, two indoors and one outdoors. There is also a fully equipped gym.
Basketball
Two free basketball courts available to everyone at the Laghetto Park. No need to book. Between threes and dunks you'll feel like Michael Jordan.
Football
Fancy playing football with friends? At the “3-star” sports ground opposite the Laghetto Park you will find a grass football pitch for up to 7 players.
Tennis
In Desenzano, halfway between Vicolo Teatro and Viale Motta, there is the Tennis Club, right by the lake, with both indoor and outdoor courts. After your match, enjoy a drink at the “Spiaggia d'Oro” bar or take a refreshing dip in the lake.
Cycling and mountain biking
Thanks to the App of the Province of Brescia, you can download directly onto your mobile phone the itinerary of the cycle paths around Lake Garda. For guests staying in Viale Motta, there is a bike rental on the ground floor of the building that is just right for you!
Go-Kart
The South Garda Karting in Lonato del Garda hosts international races, such as the European and World Championships. Challenge your friends to a race to the last overtaking, rent karts privately or participate in amateur races.
Golf
Desenzano is just a few kilometres from many golfing facilities. Among the main ones are:
- Gardagolf Country Club, between Rocca di Manerba and Soiano Castle;
- Arzaga Golf, at Calvagese;
- Chervò Golf San Vigilio, in San Martino.
Shooting Range
Shooting - Trap Concaverde, in Lonato del Garda, will put your skills to the test. It is located about 6 km from Desenzano.
Riding and Trekking
In nearby Lonato del Garda it is possible to book horseback riding excursions and enjoy the sun and nature during a beautiful walk.
For those who love trekking, there are several routes to take on Lake Garda. If you move north-west from Desenzano, you will reach the Rocca di Manerba, from the top of which you will enjoy a beautiful panorama. If you like mountains, on the other hand, you can try the cable car from Malcesine to Monte Baldo.
You can also pay a visit to the nearby Monte Corno Park in Desenzano on Lake Garda.
Further north on the lake, on the other hand, you will find wakeboarding, rafting, canyoning, climbing and paragliding schools.
In addition, to comfortably visit the wonders of Desenzano, you will have the boat available to circumnavigate Lake Garda.
Possibility of motorboat rental (without boat licence).
Motorboat rental
Whether you want to admire Sirmione from a boat, sunbathe, take a dip in the lake or enjoy an aperitif at Punta San Vigilio, motorboat hire is for you. Bring your friends! It is not compulsory to have a boat licence, an ID card is enough. No special skills are needed either, just common sense and fun is guaranteed.
Departure from the 'Ponte Della Veneziana' in the centre of Desenzano. Guests staying at By The Lake Apartments are entitled to a 15% discount on the usual price of motorboat hire.
Subject to availability. Call or text +39 3335347687 (also available on WhatsApp).
Tourist guide in Desenzano and surroundings
The Cathedral, the Archaeological Museum, the Villa Romana, the Castle, Sirmione, San Martino...let yourself be inspired by the beauty and curiosities of Desenzano on Lake Garda by Agnese, a certified guide. She will expertly lead you through the historical and artistic sights of Desenzano and beyond.
Experience subject to availability (languages spoken: Italian and English). For information and costs please send an email to
Sirmione and the castle
Not far from Desenzano, a 20-minute drive in the direction of Verona, you can find Sirmione, a 4-km-long penisula on the tip of which is the charming historic centre with the Scaliger castle. The castle dates back to around the 14th century built by Mastino I della Scala, whose Veronese family had expanded its control over the territory to these parts.
Sirmione is located in a strategic and privileged position for road and lake connections. In those days it is imagined to have been a "mansio ad flexum", a kind of pit-stop, that is, a place where travellers could stop and refresh themselves, and then leave again. Mastino I della Scala had this castle built precisely as a place of territorial defence, as a strategic military point. To prove this fact, he and his family remained located in Verona and never lived in the castle. The great keep, 37 meters high, constitutes the highest lookout and control point, and from the top one can admire the panoramic lake views that embrasses the castle itself.
With the establishment of the Republic of Venice, the Darsena was added in the 15th century.
At the entrance to the historical centre of Sirmione, you can find an additional curiosity: the small church of Saint Anne, probably dedicated to her as there is a fresco inside depicting her. It is thought that the little church was present at the time of Mastino and thus was somehow an integral part of the Scaliger castle itself.
The Grottoes of Catullus
The “Grottoes of Catullus” are another testimony to the great late antique villas of Lake Garda. Dating back to the 1st century A.D., the villa extends over about 2 hectares of land. What remains today are the foundations, i.e. the architectural elements on which the dwelling must have been built.
The structure is spread over three levels: sector A, B and C. Sector A is the highest and was the main entrance, the peristilium. It is referred to as the representative sector, whose mosaics, once flourishing, have gradually worn away over time.
The beauty of the site is enhanced by the contact with nature and the presence of the lake that surrounds the caves and makes for a pleasant panorama during the visit. In the place where the peristilium must have stood, there is a centuries-old and therefore historic olive grove.
The next level (sector B) is the level of the large corridor and bedrooms: there are multiple cubicula that must have served the owner and guests who were received inside the dwelling.
The last sector is the sector facing the lake. It featured a large velarium, i.e. a large terrace with veils that allowed one to immerse oneself in the beauty of the surrounding nature. This area, because of its large size, is also called the 'Wing of the Giants'.
The villas were those rooms where the lord moved with his family away from the city where he had his domus. The villa, in fact, had the function of a second home, capable of providing holidays and relaxing moments on the lake.
The name 'grottoes' can be misleading as one might think that this term refers to caves or caverns. This name was given by the first travellers who, in the 1400s, already knowing of the Roman remains, confused these remains with caves, a belief derived from the mass of debris, rocks, grass and vegetation they found there.
Fortunately, excavation campaigns, first carried out by Lacombe Saint Michel (Napoleon's delegate at the end of the 18th century) and then by the great archaeologist Orti Manara (around the middle of the 19th century), succeeded in redeveloping the site.
To this day, the term 'caves' remains, erroneously, in the common imagination.
Another misconception is that Catullus lived in these caves. In reality, Catullus is a Latin poet from the 1st century BC, while the villa dates back to the 1st century AD. The historical discrepancy does not make the connection plausible.
In fact, based on the writings Catullus left us, it is certain that he had lived in Sirmione, but no certainty that it was in this area.
The tower of San Martino della Battaglia
San Martino was the scene of the bloody battle linked to the Second War of Independence, which saw Vittorio Emanuele II's army clash against the Austrian army. In particular, at San Martino, the Sardinian army and the Austrians fought, while in the Solferino area, the Austrians fought against the French. 24 June 1859 is the date of the clash that initially saw the Austrians in the lead. It is said that, due to heavy rain, the troops had to interrupt the ruinous clash and when it resumed, the outnumbered Sardinian army managed to defeat the Austrian army. This event is remembered thanks to the Tower, a monument subsequently built at the request of Luigi Torelli, an Italian politician and one of the greatest supporters of the memory of the Battle of San Martino and Solferino. He therefore decided to dedicate this monument to Vittorio Emanuele II. Approximately 60 m high, the tower is divided into several floors and its interior is entirely decorated: artists were called in, including Bossoli, who narrated the battle with his paintings. He also created a series of frescoes depicting some of the epic moments of this Second War of Independence, such as the Battle of Goito, the breach of Porta Pia, the clash in the Venice lagoon or the story of Garibaldi's Thousand. Each floor of the tower of San Martino recounts a precise passage of the War of Independence. On the highest part, there is a 360° view of the territory, most represented by the countryside that hosted this clash. Next is the “Contraccania” farmstead, which was used as a place of refreshment and support for wounded soldiers during the battle; it was in this context of the Second War of Independence that the Red Cross was founded in Solferino. Henry Dunant was the one who took care of founding it, proclaiming the neutrality of the rescuers.
Vittoriale degli Italiani
The Vittoriale degli Italiani is certainly one of the most complex and articulated museums on the shores of Lake Garda. Located in Gardone Riviera, it is an ensemble of buildings, streets, squares, gardens, waterways and there is also an open-air theatre that nowadays hosts a series of plays and performances.
It was erected around 1920-1921 by the vate Gabriele D'Annunzio as a memorial to his inimitable life, him being a poet, a soldier, a man of letters and a lover of beauty. He requested the collaboration of architect Giancarlo Maroni, the same architect who would realise the "Achille Papa" monument in Desenzano on Lake Garda. The Vittoriale wants, in a broader sense, to pay homage to all Italians, especially those who fought during the First World War.
Today the Vittoriale is a foundation and the space is open for visits, making it one of the most visited museums on Lake Garda.
The most evocative place to visit is the Prioria, the last residence where Gabriele D'Annunzio lived, decorated and furnished according to his eccentric taste and always considering the idea of his unparalleled life. In the Priory there is, in fact, a continuous symbolic reference to his life and his way of being: there are around 10,000 objects and 30,000 books, which refer to his libertine, enigmatic and peculiar life. There are also a number of mottos and phrases, and references to his life. A sacred atmosphere is breathed upon entering these rooms, characterised by low lighting and painted glass windows. Each room has a particular theme: there is the cabinet room, the music room, the reading room... each room had, in fact, its own specific function.
The “D'Annunzio Hero” museum was conceived after the Priory, with the aim of celebrating the exploits of the Italian people in the 1915-1918 war. The collaboration of architect Maroni was also requested for this construction. The space was supposed to become a new residence for D'Annunzio but he actually died before seeing it completed. Today it remains open to the public.
Another monument of special interest is the “Nave Puglia”, a ship to which D'Annunzio was particularly attached to, donated to him in the 1920s. The bow of the ship was intended to face the Adriatic Sea, thus towards Dalmatia, to commemorate the war enterprise of Fiume. As a decoration of the ship, also on the bow, there was to be a Victory, a symbol of the poet's egocentric character.
The Mausoleum is the funeral monument for D'Annunzio, also built by architect Maroni, after the poet's death. In particular, Botticino marble was used for its construction. The poet's tomb is located in the highest part. A series of tombstones around the tomb are supposed to represent personalities dear to the poet, including the architect himself.